Marian University Undergraduates Uncover Lead Contamination in Fast-Fashion Kids' Apparel

Undergraduate researchers at Marian University in Indianapolis have made headlines with their preliminary findings on a pervasive issue lurking in everyday children's clothing. Cristina Avello and Priscila Espinoza, both pre-medicine students, along with their mentor, Associate Professor of Chemistry Kamila Deavers, tested shirts from popular fast-fashion and discount retailers. Their work, presented at the American Chemical Society (ACS) Spring 2026 meeting, highlights how vibrant hues in kids' clothes may harbor toxic lead, raising alarms about unintended exposure pathways.

The project stemmed from Deavers' personal experience when her daughter showed elevated lead levels from a toy, coupled with growing reports of heavy metals in textiles. 'I started to see many articles about lead in clothing from fast fashion,' Deavers explained, 'And I realized not too many parents knew about the issue.' This student-led initiative exemplifies how higher education labs can drive real-world public health discoveries, bridging classroom chemistry with consumer safety.

In a field dominated by industrial-scale testing, these undergraduates brought fresh perspectives, using rigorous protocols to quantify risks often overlooked in fabric itself rather than just accessories.

Methodology: Simulating Real-World Exposure in the Lab

The team meticulously selected 11 children's shirts spanning a rainbow of colors—red, pink, orange, yellow, gray, and blue—from four unnamed fast-fashion and discount retailers. Initial screening employed X-ray Fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy for rapid lead detection, followed by Inductively Coupled Plasma (ICP) mass spectrometry for precise quantification. Samples underwent acid digestion per EPA Method 3050b to measure total lead content.

To assess bioavailability, they conducted bioaccessibility tests using EPA Method 1340. This involved simulating gastric conditions with synthetic stomach acid and saliva to mimic oral exposure. 'We modeled what happens when a child mouths the fabric—sucking, chewing, or holding it in their mouth,' Avello noted. These steps allowed conservative estimates of lead absorption, adjusted for a child's body weight, revealing potential daily intakes far beyond safe thresholds.

• XRF screening for total lead presence
• ICP analysis post-EPA 3050b digestion
• Gastric bioaccessibility via EPA 1340 with acid and saliva simulations
• Ingestion modeling based on mouthing duration and frequency

This multi-phase approach ensured comprehensive data, underscoring the value of hands-on research training in university settings.

Key Findings: Every Sample Exceeds Federal Limits

The results were unequivocal: all 11 shirts surpassed the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) limit of 100 parts per million (ppm) for total lead in children's products. Brighter fabrics, particularly red and yellow, consistently showed elevated concentrations compared to muted tones like gray or blue. Bioaccessibility simulations indicated that even brief mouthing could push lead ingestion over the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) provisional tolerable intake level for children, potentially necessitating blood lead monitoring with repeated exposure.

Espinoza summarized, 'We saw that the shirts we tested were all over the allowed limit for lead of 100 ppm.' These conservative calculations highlight a hidden danger in items children interact with daily, amplifying the study's call for broader scrutiny.

Why Bright Colors? Lead's Role in Dye Fixation

Lead enters textiles primarily as lead(II) acetate, a cheap mordant that binds dyes to fabric fibers, ensuring vibrant, fade-resistant colors. This compound, favored in fast-fashion supply chains for cost efficiency, persists through manufacturing and retail. Previous reports noted lead in adult apparel too, but children's items pose unique risks due to size and behavior.

In global supply chains, often originating in regions with lax regulations, heavy metals like lead, cadmium, and mercury contaminate dyes and finishes. The pressure for quick, low-cost production exacerbates this, as safer alternatives demand investment.ACS press release details the chemistry.

Health Implications: Neurotoxic Threats to Developing Brains

Lead, a potent neurotoxin, inflicts irreversible damage even at low levels. In children under six—the prime mouthing age—it impairs cognitive development, lowering IQ, disrupting attention, and hindering academic performance. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) links early exposure to behavioral disorders, learning disabilities, and slowed growth.

World Health Organization (WHO) data reveals high-dose effects like convulsions, but chronic low-level exposure from clothing could compound risks from paint, water, or soil. 'Children are most vulnerable to lead's effects and most likely to mouth clothing,' Avello emphasized, tying fabric risks to everyday habits.

These outcomes underscore why academic research like Marian's is crucial for prevention.

Fast Fashion's Supply Chain Vulnerabilities

Fast fashion's model—rapid turnover, low prices—prioritizes cheap dyes over safety. Lead acetate's ubiquity stems from outsourced production in developing nations, where enforcement lags. Marian's findings echo broader concerns, with toxins leaching during wear or wash.ScienceDaily coverage expands on supply issues.

Consumers unknowingly contribute via demand for trendy, affordable kids' wear, but awareness can shift behaviors toward sustainable brands.

Regulatory Framework: CPSC Limits and Enforcement Challenges

The CPSC mandates <100 ppm lead in accessible components of children's products since 2008, yet fabric testing remains inconsistent. Metal parts like snaps have drawn prior focus, but Marian's work spotlights textiles. FDA's 3 µg/day child intake benchmark was breached in simulations.

Gaps persist: no routine fabric screening, voluntary compliance, and global trade complicating oversight. Calls grow for mandatory third-party testing and import bans.

Historical Context: Prior Studies on Clothing Lead

Earlier research targeted zippers and buttons, finding exceedances prompting recalls. Fabric-specific probes were rarer until now, though heavy metals in dyes have long been documented. Marian's innovation lies in bioaccessibility modeling, filling a critical evidence gap.

Pathways Forward: Safer Mordants and Industry Shifts

Alternatives abound: natural tannins from oak bark, pomegranate peel, or rosemary; alum as eco-friendly option. Deavers notes, 'But changing technology costs money'—requiring consumer pressure and policy. Washing studies loom, probing contamination spread.

• Plant-based mordants for dye fixation
• Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate)
• Stricter supply chain audits
• Consumer demand for certified toxin-free apparel

Universities like Marian can lead certification innovations.

Next Steps in Research and Outreach

Avello and Espinoza plan expanded sampling, laundering trials, and absorption correlations. 'Everything we do is only important if we talk about it,' Avello said. Partnerships with regulators could amplify impact.

Practical Advice for Parents and Educators

Opt for organic or GOTS-certified clothing; avoid bright synthetics for young kids; wash new items before use. Test homes for lead sources via kits. Educators can integrate this into STEM curricula, fostering informed consumers.CDC lead prevention resources.

Higher Education's Pivotal Role in Safeguarding Public Health

Marian's project illustrates undergraduate research's power: training future scientists while addressing societal threats. As fast fashion booms, academic labs must pioneer solutions, from dye chemistry to policy advocacy, ensuring safer wardrobes for generations.

Photo by Vitaly Gariev on Unsplash